Tom was hanging out watching the waves, when someone walked up behind him and said to Eddie (the owner of the surf hotel), “Hey Eddie, I wanna sell this board for $200!”. Tom overhead this and immediately swung around replying “I’ll take it”.

It was a massive stroke of luck. The guy selling the board was a shaper from Hawaii, Mike Meyers, who brought a whole quiver of boards he shaped down with him. The board, a 6’ 6 gun, was practically brand new, and an absolute bargain.

Mike had more joy to spread. He came back with two boards: a 6’ 2’ double-glazed shortie, which he gave to me for $110 including leash and fins. Sure, it’s an old codger but unbreakable and perfect for this trip. I picked up a bag and some wax for $28 from Eddie, and now we’re all set. Swell arrives tomorrow.